Tag-Archive for ◊ Garden ◊

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• Thursday, December 01st, 2011

Pruning is one of those things that intimidates new gardeners — even some of us who’ve been doing it for a long time. True, you can do a lot of damage if you go about it in the wrong way. And if you want to take on complex pruning jobs — such as restoring fruit trees or shaping hedges — it makes sense to get a good book on the subject. I recommendThe Pruning Book by Lee Reich. But, with a few simple guidelines, even a beginner can prune ornamental shrubs successfully. In general, your goal with any ornamental shrub is to:

Remove dead or damaged wood
Open up the shrub for better air movement
Reduce height, if desired

Start in late winter, before the leaves come out. It’s much easier to see what you’re working with. Plus, you get to be in the garden — at last!

Make sure you have a set of quality tools. For most jobs, you can get by with a set of hand-held pruners and a pruning saw for bigger branches. For big jobs, it’s handy to have a loppers to take care of branches that are too thick for the hand pruners. Don’t skimp on quality. Good tools are more expensive, but they make the job easier and more efficient.

It’s important to identify each shrub before you prune. If you don’t know what it is, find a neighbor that can help you, or contact a Master Gardener via your county cooperative extension service.

Why? Some shrubs should not be pruned in spring. In general, spring bloomers, such as magnolias and lilacs, should be pruned after they bloom. There’s an old saying about lilacs: prune after they bloom but before the Fourth of July. Any later and you risk cutting off the next season’s blooms. For these early-flowering shrubs, just look for dead or damaged wood and remove it.

Once you’ve identified your shrub as a candidate for late-winter pruning, look for dead or damaged wood. Remove it, using hand pruners or the pruning saw for larger branches.

If you want to keep the shrub compact, consider removing some of the older, thicker branches and leaving the younger ones. With many shrubs, you can remove the entire branch, right to the ground. Another reason to remove some of the old wood: It relieves congestion and opens up the shrub. Better airflow means less chance for diseases, such as powdery mildew.

To renew the viburnum hedge, I used a pruning saw to take out about a third of the older branches — right at ground level. Then, I reduced the height by 1 to 2 feet. The “tough-love” pruning looks a little harsh, but the effort will pay off.

After you’ve thinned the shrub, stand back and take out branches that don’t “fit” the structure of the shrub. This is subjective, so do what you think is right. In some cases, it’s just a matter of trimming a gangly branch or two. As you work, keep looking for dead or damaged wood that you might have missed.

If your shrub puts out a lot of suckers — fast-growing branches that appear at the base of the shrub — you might want to remove some of them, especially if the plant is growing vigorously.

That’s it. During the year, pay attention to how your pruned shrubs grow and make notes for next year. Again, it’s pretty important to identify your shrub before you start making cuts. For instance, hydrangeas benefit from special pruning techniques. The popular blue varieties are best pruned right after blooming. However, white Annabelles and PeeGees can be pruned hard in spring. For more information look at some good gardening blogs.

 

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• Wednesday, November 30th, 2011

Stop! Before you take the shovel, before you plant a single herb. Stop to consider why you want an herb garden. What are your intentions for planting these marvelous plants?

Are you planning on using them both fresh and dried for culinary purposes — to add to your meals to enhance the flavors? Are you planning on making flavored oils or vinegars to present to friends and family members as gifts (while keeping a couple stashed for yourself?)

Or have you discovered the many natural health benefits of herbs and would like to grow your own to brew teas, infusions, pastes to use to help your minor health conditions?

Oh, yes, it does matter! First, you may be planting totally different plants if your aim is to embolden your entrees than to empower your health.

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Here are just a few of the different “classes” of herbs, each used for a different reason”

Culinary herbs — sometimes referred to as sweet herbs – are those plants, whether they be annual, biennial or perennial, that have tender roots or ripe seeds. They also possess an aromatic flavor (yes, they smell darned good!) and they have a great flavor.

Medicinal herbs are grown with the intent of eventual use to remedy specific health conditions, from serious heart related problems or the pain of arthritis to loss of energy or memory.

Ornamental herbs. Just as the name implies, these herbs are grown with the intent of pure enjoy. They’re cherished for their beauty.

Then there are the herbs that are grown in order to enjoy a great cup of tea. And believe it or not, there are gorgeous, imaginatively designed gardens, grown for this express purpose.

The herbs you ultimately grow depend on large part, which class of herbs you want.

How to Herb Garden team http://howtoherbgarden.bytinet.com Information for Successful Herb Gardening

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• Monday, November 28th, 2011

This is the story about a mistake I made in my new garden that for me at the time, was about as devastating as it could get. The remarkable thing about it though was as time went on I was nearly glad that I’d made that mistake.

When we shifted into our new house in Melbourne at the end of 2005 I was pretty excited as what I had to start with was a clean slate which meant careful planning and the opportunity to fill my new garden with all the types of plants that I really loved. For me Australian native plants were one of my passions as well as proteas from South Africa. Basically, any member of the proteaceae family are the plants that I love the most.

The plan with the backyard was to excavate an area in the middle with the intention of having a sunken lawn with raised garden beds about 3m wide in between the lawn and the fence. The idea had always appealed to me as I like to add a little bit of interest in the way things are landscaped.

Firstly the excavations from the lawn area were removed and then piled around the fence area for the raised garden beds. This would be ideal as most proteaceae plants like good drainage and friable soil so the raised beds would be ideal. The only problem was, the excavations were hard dry brown clay. This was about as unsuitable as you could get for these types of plants.

Now the easy way out of this would have been to get the clay carted away and then get lots and lots of garden soil or even sandy loam in to replace it with. Not only would this be very expensive and time consuming but it also meant that I’d be dumping my rubbish somewhere else and replacing it with somebody else’s (in this case the environments) good quality soil.

The only option for me was to improve what I already had and turn it into something that the plants would be very happy to grow in. Not only was this very achievable but it would also mean less work for me, money saved and better for the environment. The plan was simple, get some gypsum and lots of good quality compost delivered, hire as large a cultivator and then just cultivate it all in together.

It was all very simple but the success of the whole project was to hinge on just one small factor………. getting the right compost. Now because the majority of the plants that were to go in my garden were proteaceae I knew that the compost had to be free of any phosphorus. This was important because as most gardeners know fertilizers with phosphorus will kill most plants from this family.

When I went to the garden centre and inquired about the phosphorus I was told that they couldn’t guarantee the compost didn’t have phosphorus and they suggested that I use Eucy mulch. This consisted of shredded leaves and branches from Eucalyptus trees. This to me didn’t seem like a good option at all as the mulch was far from being compost and was not suitable to bury under the ground as it was still going through the composting process. Neither of these options was suitable so I decided try another garden centre. The next one I went to also had compost. I asked about the phosphorus and despite the sales person being unsure he did assure me that it was suitable for natives and there shouldn’t be any problems.

I suppose I should have been sceptical at this response but the compost was very good quality and it was also the right price. At the end of the day I thought it was worth the risk as there weren’t really many other options. So based on all of that the project went ahead and by September of 2006 my garden beds were ready to be planted out with all my favourite plants.

The summer that followed was very dry and I kept my garden alive by hand watering and some of the plants actually started to grow. But by the time autumn started to roll around some of these also started to die. All of a sudden I started to get a bad feeling about what was happening. Most of the plants that were dying were proteaceae plants and the ones that were doing ok were mostly not. I was starting to accept that my worst fear was now starting to become a reality. There was some phosphorus in the compost. This was the worst outcome possible for me. This garden I was building was to be a place for me to show case the types of plants that I loved the most and to top it all off some of the plants that had perished were actually very rare and rarely seen in gardens and plant nurseries.

Anyway as time went on more and more plants slowly started to pass away and I replaced them with non proteaceae plants. But as time went on I also discovered something else. Not all of the proteaceae plants were actually dying. Some were actually doing ok. All of a sudden my mood went from despair and perseverance to realising there was an opportunity here to actually learn something.

All of a sudden I could start to document which proteaceae plants aren’t affected by phosphorus, which one’s will barely tolerant it and which ones were killed by it. What the experts had been saying for years was not 100% correct. Some proteaceae plants aren’t affected by phosphorus.

The other amazing thing that came out of this discovery was that it steered me it the direction of another Australian native plant that I had long over looked. This particular plant is rarely found in many nurseries and gardens. It is very, very drought hardy, it’s forms are wide and varied and when in flower it can put on a display that would rival almost any flowering plant from anywhere in the world. It is called the Eremophila and since most of my proteaceae plants have died I’ve added about 20 different varieties of this plant to my garden and they’re all doing extremely well. It’s my intention to write an article about these plants very soon as even here in its native country of Australia it is still very much underutilized and deserves the respect of a separate article.

Anyway getting back to the problem of the phosphorus, a solution came my way in April last year. I was visiting a native plant stall at the Melbourne International Garden Show. While talking to the sales person his about his grevilleas, I mentioned that I would like to purchase some of his stock. The only problem was that my garden soil was contaminated with phosphorus and I’d grown tired of experimenting with which one’s would live and which ones would die. To my surprise he offered me a solution. He mentioned that all you had to do was add a high nitrogen fertilizer to the soil and this would counteract the high percentage of phosphorus. What a piece of gold! This was definitely something that you can’t find in book. It sounded so feasible and so easy to do that it was well and truly worth trialling.

I then went to the garden store on the way home and purchased some liquid fertilizer that had the highest differential in the ratio of nitrogen to phosphorus that I could find (it’s unusual to ever find a fertilizer without any phosphorus at all). I still had some grevilleas in the garden that were still alive but only just. They’d hardly grown at all since they were planted and about 50% of their leaves were either partially or completely blacken by the phosphorus. These would be the subjects of my experiment. I then drenched them with the liquid fertilizer solution and continued to do so every second month over winter until in spring they actually started to recover and put on new green growth. It was amazing, what I had been told appeared to be working and as of today about a year later those plants are all doing very well and showing no affects whatever of the phosphorus. That high nitrogen fertilizer actually worked. The next step will be retry some of the types of plants that died and see if I can get them to grow with the use of that fertilizer, but that’s for further down the track.

As far as which plants died and which plants survived this is still a work in progress but I will make it the subject an article very soon. So please……… stay tuned!

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• Saturday, November 26th, 2011

The use of sleek, modern lines and sharp angles mixed with attractively crafted wicker usually creates the look of elegance and comfort. The finest selections of rattan garden furniture can add quite a bit of life to a no matter outside each piece is put. 

The Purpose 

Almost all individuals use rattan garden furniture to produce a warm and inviting atmosphere that can benefit you, your family, as well as your guests. This furniture, especially those that come with soft cushions are noted to be very comfortable. 

Numerous people use this furniture to offer comfort for their guests. At the same time the most modern models are quite attractive. Consequently, many people (whether subconsciously or consciously) use this décor to “show off.” 

Wicker garden furniture more often than not is used in outside areas. Still, certain up-to-date models of this type of furniture can easily be used to add life and flair to any interior space. For instance, sometimes people very thoughtfully set this type of furniture in a lounge area or sun room. 

The Product (General Review) 

There is a rather lengthy assortment of models of wicker garden furniture that include items chairs, glass top coffee tables, and sofas. Although some of them may be of very low quality, some models are known to be far greater than others. 

It is to your advantage if you take time to seek the ones that are created from the most durable materials obtainable. All the same, it helps if you seek the ones that are as lightweight as achievable so they are easier to move around and place in storage. 

If you can seek the ones of which the frames and/or legs are constructed from lightweight aluminum that is coated with a protective coating these would be your best choice. That way, each piece will be easy to transport and will also is highly unlikely to ever rust or wear out. 

Certain models of rattan garden furniture are UV treated and can be placed outside all year round with no the expectation of fading, splitting, or cracking of the rattan.  Most of these pieces are supplied with an outdoor waterproof cover that saves each piece when it is not being used. 

Recommended Models 

The appropriate models of rattan garden furniture can be mixed in such a means to make precisely the right affect. These contemporary pieces are more often than not combined with different styles of furniture to create a display, which will exhibit your unique tastes. 

Sets of recommended models include the following (pending current availability): The Juniper Garden Set which is noted for its black base and frame against bright colored 12mm cushions, The Saturn Rattan Garden Furniture set which is constructed of thick, white padded cushions, and the Havana Rattan Garden Furniture Set which is known for its rich dark brown color and sharp corners. 

As brought to your attention previously, select examples of contemporary rattan garden furniture are very durable. Furthermore, these are created of the choicest materials and were arranged by some of the most talented architects, as well as assembly persons. 

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• Sunday, November 20th, 2011

It can be a scary exercise to sit down and work out exactly what is spent every year, on the average home gardens and lawns.

Try adding up the costs of plants, weedicides, pesticides, fungicides, fertilisers, petrol, mower and trimmer maintenance, weed eater cord, garden mulch and even water costs. Even the time and effort we go to in order to maintain a good-looking environment for our families and ourselves can amount to a substantial price.

So it is no wonder that many people are looking at ways to save money for more important causes.

One of the first things that you can do to save money, is to make use of as much of that organic matter that many people throw in the bin or wash down the sink.

For instance do you throw out your lawn clippings? Do you dutifully wrap up and throw out those old veggie scraps?

Are you one of those people who regularly get the trailer out and make trips down to the landfill with a pile of branch prunings?

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What about those pile of leaves you threw in the bin last autumn?

Do you realise that all of those things can be turned into a wonderful form of plant food, as well as being used as a barrier to prevent the soil from loosing moisture and therefore increasing the amount of time between watering your garden. An organic mulch will also improve the soil structure, increase the good animals like worms while assisting in decreasing the nasty pests living in the soil.

By keeping these sorts of things within your own garden you are also assisting in reducing the effects that city living is having on the environment in landfill problems and costs.

There are a number of different ways that you can recycle these piles of organic matter within your own yard. One is to apply the bulk organic matter directly to your garden beds, ensuring that you don’t pile the material directly up against the trunks or main stems of the plants. A second idea to get a worm farm and recycle your kitchen waste that way; the worms provide you with a very strong and nutritious fertilising liquid for the garden as a bonus. This liquid is so strong it has to be diluted 10-1.

Don’t, by the way, put meat products, citrus peels or onion and garlic in with the worms. A third way is to purchase or construct your own compost pile/bin/tumbler and recycle the material that way.

So just by composting your old leaves, soft cuttings, veggie and fruit scraps, chipped branches, lawn clippings etc., you can do a lot to reduce your costs that you would have spent on such things as garden mulch and fertilisers as well as assisting your plants to last much longer between watering periods. So as you can see there are a number of reasons for not throwing away all that organic material.

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• Friday, November 18th, 2011

With the old familiar variety of garden hoses as well as black Poly irrigation systems, there are two major problems that occur along the length of the hose or pipe, one is cracking and/or splitting of the hose/pipe and the second problem is the familiar kinking of the hose/pipe. So what can you do about it besides going out and buying a new hose or roll of poly’ pipe? Well there is at least one repair method that should help with either problem. Without the cost and problems of putting expensive joiners into your watering system.

Split Hoses/Pipes

What do you do once your garden hose or irrigation pipe has developed a crack or split after your son has mowed over it or you’ve managed to drive over it once too often?

With either type of system, you could cut out the section of the damaged hose or pipe and put in a joiner, but sometimes this is impractical or impossible. Then why not look at repairing it instead of replacing it. Use the same method as you would for a kinked hose. Which is listed below.

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Kinking Hoses/Pipes

Once a garden hose or irrigation pipe has jack-knifed back on itself at a particular spot, it will continue to do so for the life of the hose/pipe. This is because it has become weakened at that point. Again you have the option to cut out the weakened area and join the remaining parts of the hose. Or you will have to look at repairing the weakened area to stop it kinking in future, you can do this by bracing the weakened area/s by the following method . . .

What you will need to repair split/kinked hoses or irrigation pipes

An excess section of garden hose or irrigation pipe A Sharp knife or blade Container of hot water Measure and cut off a small section of hose/pipe, approximately three inches long, or as long as is needed to cover over the weakened or broken area. Cut this section down its length on one side only.

Soften the hose or pipe section in hot water. Open it up and wrap this like a bandage around the weakened section of hose/pipe.

This acts like a splint over the weak area, strengthening it so that at that point it will not kink or fountain out water anymore.

If you are repairing a split area of the hose you may have to look at sealing the hose with something like a silicon sealant. But you will find that simply putting the hose splint will greatly reduce and/or stop the leak.

The hose or pipe splint will not move off of the weakened or split area because it rehardens fairly quickly as it cools, this tightens its grip over the weak part of your hose/pipe.

Repeat this procedure for other areas that are split or are prone to kink of the garden hose or irrigation pipe that you are using.

So if that garden hose or irrigation system of yours is split in one or more places or is kinking all the time, and it is frustrating you no end, then do something other than throwing it out. Either repair it or at least keep the old hose or pipe to repair your future watering systems.

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• Tuesday, November 15th, 2011

Flowering trees can add beauty to your landscape and enhance your garden but when choosing trees you have a few things to consider.

First of all, you want to be sure to select a tree whose height will be a good match for the spot you are putting it in. If you want a rather short tree to compliment a corner garden, then you won’t want to choose one that grows to 50 feet tall. On the other hand, if you want a large tree to spruce up your front yard, a dwarf tree will be … well … dwarfed by the rest of the landscape.

You’ll also want to choose trees that thrive in your area and be aware of any pests or special maintenance. Your local garden center can help steer you in the right direction for maintenance and planting instructions. Here’s some flowering trees you might want to consider:

Flowering Cherry Trees

There are several varieties of flowering cherry trees that grow from 12 feet to 50 feet tall. The Snow Fountain Flowering Cherry is great for smaller gardens and grows to only 12 feet in height. This tree has branches that droop to the ground with white flowers that bloom early in the season. A perfect tree to highlight a corner garden. The Pendula Weeping Japanese Flowering Cherry gets to about 20 feet in height and about 15 feet in width. It has pale pink flowers that bloom early in the season. The Kwanzan has in inverted cone shape and will get to about 30 feet tall X 20 feet wide. It has large pink flowers that bloom in mid season. The Kwanzan has orange foliage in fall. The Sargentii Flowering Cherry Tree is the tallest reaching 50 feet in height. It has pink flowers that bloom in clumps during the mid season.

Flowering Dogwood Tree

This is one of the most popular trees and has white flowers that bloom in spring. This tree, however is a bit picky about where you plant it and should be planted in a sheltered area, either on the side of the house or where it will be shaded by another tree.

Flowering Peach Tree

If you live in a Southern climate, then you are probably familier with this tree. This vase shaped tree grows to 25 feet and produces a lot of fruit. You must, however, plant it in the correct climate and soil. Avoid soil that is too wet or you will be disappointed with the outcome.

Flowering Pear Tree

The flowering pear tree can perk up any landscape and grows to about 45 feet producing lush yummy fruit as well as flowers. There are actually different types of pear trees that will grow to different sizes. They produce white buds in spring with either red or purple foliage in fall.

The Magnolia

This tree is another long time favorite and produces beautiful flowers that bloom in spring. If you live in the south you will want to consider the Southern Magnolia with it’s fragrant white flowers. This variety can reach heights of 80 feet and shows red fruit in fall. In the north, you’ll want to plant the saucer magnolia that has pinkish white flowers in early spring and grows to 30 feet.

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• Monday, November 14th, 2011

Water-wise “naturescapes” offer savings

When it comes to watering your lawn and paying water bills, sound gardening practices can cut down homeowner investments of effort, time and money, reports the American Association of Nurserymen. And, you don’t have to turn your lovely colorful landscape into a rock garden featuring a sprinkling of cactus plants.

This popular approach to water management and water-conserving landscape design has been commonly known as Xeriscaping, and because the term comes from the Greek for “dry” many people assume it describes desert landscapes. That couldn’t be further from the truth. In contrast, the approach focuses on working with nature’s guidelines to create a lush looking landscape. As a matter of fact, “naturescaping” can be another way to describe this water-wise landscape design and management.

Turning your yard and garden into a “naturescape” requires some common sense and planning. That entails choosing the best plants, soils, locations, and irrigation systems for efficient water use. Some of those water-wise plant materials include vibrantly colored perennials and lush varieties of shrubs.

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The keys to “naturescaping” involve how, when, and what you water in taking care of your property. Low-volume irrigation systems such as drip-watering devices reduce water use by 50 percent. Early-morning watering cuts down on evaporation.

Water-wise “naturescapes” offer savings. Grouping plants by water requirements is a smart way to guard against overwatering some plants and underwatering others. Save water by replacing leaky parts of irrigation devices and positioning sprinklers to shower areas of vegetation, as opposed to the driveway, garage, or deck.

A constant among guidelines for being water-wise is maintaining the health of your plants. Strong plants don’t need as much water as weak ones do. We have many reports from gardeners that Spray-N-Grow helps their plants withstand drought much better than those not sprayed with Spray-N-Grow. That’s because Spray-N-Grow helps plants develop a better root structure-more roots that are larger and longer. Plants that have a better root structure are more able to “find” any available moisture.

Be sure to add the needed soil amendments and mulch around plants to keep the roots moist. When adding to your landscape, don’t forget to include drought-resistant plants and grasses to those you already have.

Before you begin planning your new “naturescape” or planning how to convert your current landscape into a more water-efficient one, be sure to check with the experts at your retail nursery/garden center. They can offer the most valuable assistance for getting the best results.

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• Friday, November 11th, 2011

Imagine a beautiful evening when you are sitting in your garden with friends and family. You can add quality to your outdoor furniture with Hampton Bay Patio furniture that is made out rust proof and made of lightweight aluminum. It makes perfect garden furniture that will make your porch or garden beautified with cozy looking garden chairs and tables. It is generally available in wood, cane as well as aluminum items that are extremely lightweight so that one can move them easily. The highlight of Hampton Bay Patio furniture is that it comes with Ultra Violet protected PVC that can stand rough climatic conditions for years altogether.

This makes it highly useful in comparison to other patio accessories that are not so long lasting. In order to enjoy the pleasure of light summer breeze, they are essentially good as it features lightweight, portable yet heavy duty designer style that makes it a perfect choice. Basically, they are casual furniture that comes in natural designs and shades. This makes Hampton Bay Patio furniture a good option. This also includes teak and bamboo furniture that ensures durability and strength. However, the makeover of the furniture comes with cushioned furnishings that offer ample comfort and relaxation.

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In general, it is also easy to maintain as it comes with lightweight body that makes it easy to clean. In terms of aesthetic comfort, it is more preferable than plastic garden items. Incase you are planning to add a new set of garden furniture, make sure you go for Hampton Bay Patio furniture that comes in large variety and colors.

With such kind of house ware, you can make your garden appear beautiful place to sit with rustproof qualification. One can choose from a wide range of designer patio furniture for enhancing the look of one’s house. Some of the famous contemporary includes Brown Jordan patio furniture, garden treasure patio furniture, Hanamint patio furniture, Home Crest patio furniture, one can also choose from Kmart patio furniture, Lowes patio furniture, Woodard patio furniture and many more.

These are some of the well known garden furniture items that one can choose from an entire range of Hampton Bay Patio furniture.

You can recreate your garden area with this designer patio garden furniture at affordable price as well as to have the design that perfectly match to your needs without spending a lot of money to buy them, which sometimes they may not worth the prices. These are high quality furnishing items that will add a graceful look to your home, porch and garden. Make sure you go for such designer furniture that comes with a warranty that enhances the designer and contemporary look to your patio. So, next time you plan to add some new garden chairs or planning for a makeover, make sure you go for Hampton Bay Patio furniture accessories that will improve the scenic look of your home along with your garden and you will find that it is one of the most favourite choices of patio furniture.

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• Thursday, October 20th, 2011

While selecting tables, chairs, benches, garden hammocks, deck chairs and other items for the garden, consistency with home theme should be taken into consideration. Accessories like fountains, earthen pots, garden umbrellas etc must be in sync with the home décor and should not give a cluttered look. After all a garden is the place to relax and enjoy nature.

A mixture of cultures should be avoided in extending the home environment into the garden. If the interiors have traditional Indian look then the garden should also complement it. For an Oriental theme inside the home, granite and bamboo gel well while stone walkways and patio define the French flavour.

Attention should also be paid to the material of garden furniture. According to the weather conditions one can chose from wood, cane, wicker, teak, wrought iron or the ever durable plastic. However, nowadays many new materials are also in vogue like the Malaysian Rattan or rubber wood. Rattan combined with wood or aluminium can make a garden look well put together.

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Moving inside, choosing the right home furniture and accessories is very important as it can style your abode excellently. Home furniture can make a room look splendid or distasteful. The theme, colour and material of the furniture should assimilate well with the personality of the home owner.

Indian homes are generally adorned with wood having different finishing. For those who love to experiment metallic furniture like wrought iron or sleek and stylish aluminium furniture can be a good option. For a contemporary look designer furniture and branded products are available in plenty.
While the right security accessories ensure safety of the home, decorative accessories give a distinctive look. Modern home accessories like wall art, paintings framed exquisitely can work wonders. Well chosen lamps, chandeliers and designer lights or candles integrating with the furniture and theme can definitely give a unique feel to your home.

Ornamental plants like bamboo or palm with stylish vases or pots in the living room or kitchen bring nature closer to you and give a refreshing feel. Decorative pillows on sofas, chairs or couch add a soft touch to the decor. Finding the right home theatre accessories for relaxing and enjoyment is very important.